A: If you want to spend a few dollars, go to an auto parts store and purchase an appropriately sized cover for the ball. Before putting the cover onto the tow ball, lightly spray it with some silicone, or rub a very small bit of light oil onto it – 3-in-1 oil works very well for this, as does sewing machine oil. If your tow ball is already rusty, rub the rust off using fine or extra fine steel wool and some silicone or light oil. Finish by wiping it down with a paper towel and then again re-coat the ball with a light oil or silicone. You can make a free tow ball cover for some size tow balls using a split tennis ball, but this will not cover the base of the tow ball – only the actual ball. If none of the above appeal to you, then just follow the instructions above for removing existing rust and then apply a very thin film of grease to the tow ball and base. This will not only protect the tow ball from rusting, it will also ensure that when the hitch is used on the tow ball, the hitch mechanism will rotate freely and without squeaking.

A: Bird droppings can actually eat all the way through your paint – down to the bare metal. This is a common problem with farming equipment, which is stored for months at a time in areas where pigeons roost. The most important thing is to remove the droppings as soon as possible – which can be done by flooding the area with water, and using a sponge and/or a mild soap if necessary. Once the paint is affected, you will likely need to use a very fine rubbing compound to get the affected area to look right again. Get some extra fine cut rubbing compound at your local auto parts store – you won’t need very much, so get a small container. Follow the directions on the can and the mark should quickly disappear. If it doesn’t, then you’ll likely need to proceed with some form of touch-up painting, followed by rubbing compound to properly blend the spot into the rest of the finish.

A: It has to do with the amount of rubber that is in contact with the road’s surface. By design, new tires have only a percentage of the rubber coming into contact with the road. As the tread wears away and the inner portion of the tire is exposed, more surface area contacts the road and thus creates more noise. NOTE: If your tires have become that much more noisy, it’s likely time to have them changed. Tread is critical to proper tire performance and vehicle safety.

A: It will depend on two things: 1) whether or not your battery is truly ‘completely’ dead and 2) the capacity of your portable car battery charger. Many car battery chargers do not have a setting for ‘jump starting’ another vehicle. If your car battery charger has a setting for jump starting, then follow all safety procedures and use it to start your motorcycle. If it does not have such a setting, then you can try hooking it up to your motorcycle battery, again following all necessary safety precautions, and try to charge up your motorcycle battery enough to get it to turnover.

A: If your plugs have oily residue on them, such as two-stroke engine plugs frequently do, start by using a tiny bit of gasoline and a toothbrush to remove all of that. Then use a wire brush to get the rest of the top area dirt, grime, carbon, etc. Rub the brush, briskly, on the plug in all directions and angles. Finish with a small piece of fine Emory cloth or sandpaper. Fold it over once and slide it between the two contacts – then slide it back and forth 15-20 times to remove debris stuck to those critical points. Now check and make sure that the gap is still within specifications. Finally, be sure to clean all the debris off the plug before reinstalling it in your engine. This can be done with compressed air and/or some gasoline and a toothbrush. NOTE: be sure to check the porcelain on the plug to ensure it’s not cracked or chipped – if it is, replace the plug.

A: If the vinyl decals are on the OUTSIDE of the window, it is relatively easy to remove. To remove them, first try heating them with a hair dryer and peeling them off. This will often work, and is the fastest, cleanest method to remove vinyl decals. If this fails, then use a single-edge razor blade to carefully lift a part of the outer edge of the vinyl decal. Now again try to peel it (slowly but steadily) away. As a last resort, use the razor blade to completely remove the vinyl decal and then use Goo-Gone to remove the remnant adhesives. Finish with a good window cleaning using white vinegar and water (1:4 parts). NOTE: If the vinyl decals are on the INSIDE of the window, and you have defroster wires on the window – then you should take your vehicle to a window tint installer and have the vinyl decals removed.

A: There are two elements to the door’s locking mechanism: 1) the keyed tumbler system and 2) the actual mechanism that is engaged when the tumblers are engaged/disengaged. Your problem is most likely with the first. To fix it, blow compressed air (or use a can of air with the nozzle attached) into the slot where your key goes. This will dislodge and remove any debris. Now, stick the end of a tube of powdered graphite into the key slot and squeeze a puff or two into the lock. Now, insert the key and slide it in and out a few times – then turn the key several times to get the graphite throughout the lock. This service should be performed about every 6-months to a year, depending on how dirty your area is. If you need to fix the interior mechanism, you’ll need to remove the inside door panel and clean and lubricate as necessary for your specific locking mechanism. White lithium grease is excellent as a lubricant for this application.

A: Almost surely, your door’s closing/locking mechanism is either stuck or broken. To open the door you’ll require a tool called a “Slim Jim.” These are at car dealers, locksmiths, and police departments. The tool slides down between the car’s window and the rubber seal and allows you to grab the lock and manually lift it. If you know someone with a Slim Jim, you can get a diagram of the interior of the door from the Internet and then use the tool to open it. Otherwise, you’ll have to take it to either a locksmith or a dealer. In the long run, the dealer will likely work out to be the best option – as the door’s mechanism will have to be either repaired or replaced.

A: 1 Kilometer = 0.621371192 miles (1 Mile = 1.6 Kilometers.) 1 Liter = 0.264172051 gallons (4.54 liters = 1 Gallon). Now, using the same formula you used to compute MPG, plug in the metric equivalents. OR, to convert your MPG to KPL, multiply as necessary:

If you get 30 MPG, multiply 30 x 1.6. Now divide that by 4.54. The answer is: 10.57 KPL.

NOTE: Interestingly, people in the metric world tend to compute mileage in “liters per 100 kilometers.”

A: It would be impossible to answer this question accurately, but I can give you a guideline or two, and a suggestion. If your battery is in bad shape, you might need to start it daily to keep it alive. If your battery is new, and in very good shape, you would only need to start the vehicle about once every ten days or so. As you might imagine, this consumes a great deal of costly fuel, and is not really a very efficient way to charge a battery. The best solution for vehicles that are rarely driven is a Battery Tender. You can read about them at batterytender.com. These are not chargers, but rather systems which read your batteries condition and trickle charge only as necessary. If you use one, you’ll never have a dead battery.