Archive for the ‘Motorcyle: Maintenance’ Category

Jump starting

Thursday, July 19th, 2007

Q: My 12-volt motorcycle battery is completely dead. Can I jump start my motorcycle with my portable car battery charger?

A: It will depend on two things: 1) whether or not your battery is truly ‘completely’ dead and 2) the capacity of your portable car battery charger. Many car battery chargers do not have a setting for ‘jump starting’ another vehicle. If your car battery charger has a setting for jump starting, then follow all safety procedures and use it to start your motorcycle. If it does not have such a setting, then you can try hooking it up to your motorcycle battery, again following all necessary safety precautions, and try to charge up your motorcycle battery enough to get it to turnover.

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Clean spark plugs

Tuesday, July 17th, 2007

Q: How can I clean my own spark plugs?

A: If your plugs have oily residue on them, such as two-stroke engine plugs frequently do, start by using a tiny bit of gasoline and a toothbrush to remove all of that. Then use a wire brush to get the rest of the top area dirt, grime, carbon, etc. Rub the brush, briskly, on the plug in all directions and angles. Finish with a small piece of fine Emory cloth or sandpaper. Fold it over once and slide it between the two contacts – then slide it back and forth 15-20 times to remove debris stuck to those critical points. Now check and make sure that the gap is still within specifications. Finally, be sure to clean all the debris off the plug before reinstalling it in your engine. This can be done with compressed air and/or some gasoline and a toothbrush. NOTE: be sure to check the porcelain on the plug to ensure it’s not cracked or chipped – if it is, replace the plug.

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Battery care

Tuesday, July 3rd, 2007

Q: Should I start my motorcycle every three or four days so that the battery won’t die or go bad?

A: It would be impossible to answer this question accurately, but I can give you a guideline or two, and a suggestion. If your battery is in bad shape, you might need to start it daily to keep it alive. If your battery is new, and in very good shape, you would only need to start the vehicle about once every ten days or so. As you might imagine, this consumes a great deal of costly fuel, and is not really a very efficient way to charge a battery. The best solution for vehicles that are rarely driven is a Battery Tender. You can read about them at batterytender.com. These are not chargers, but rather systems which read your batteries condition and trickle charge only as necessary. If you use one, you’ll never have a dead battery.

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Battery care

Saturday, June 23rd, 2007

Q: I have a car that I only drive about once or twice a month. The battery gets discharged when the car is not used. How can I prevent that from happening?

A: It is inescapable that a CONNECTED battery loses a very small part of its charge – even when not being ‘used.’ The battery is, actually, being used however. The loss of power is just very minute – such as running an electric clock, etc. In any event, purchase a Battery Tender and hookup your battery. They’re inexpensive, and work like a charm. If your battery is fully discharging between uses, you’ll likely need to replace the battery.

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Terminal service

Thursday, June 21st, 2007

Q: How can I clean my battery and battery terminals – safely?

A: Start by disconnecting the negative (-) lead from the battery. Now remove the positive lead. This will ensure the operation is safe for your car, and for you. Now, you can brush off any loose debris with a scrub brush or a toothbrush. Once that’s done, use a wire brush to clean the terminals. If you don’t have a wire brush, the carefully pour some white vinegar over the terminals. This will dissolve away any corrosion or discoloration almost instantly. At this time, if you deem it necessary, you can use a small brush and mild cleaning solution to clean the rest of the battery case. When it’s all done, use a piece of sand paper to ‘rough up’ the two terminals – and ensure a really solid connection to the leads. Now put a dab of grease onto each terminal and re-attach the positive lead first, followed by the negative lead. Make sure the connections are tight and solid. Finish off by putting a dollop of grease on each terminal and spreading it around to waterproof, and otherwise protect, the entire connection.

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Winter Storage

Thursday, May 17th, 2007

Q: When I park my bike for the (non-riding) winter storage season, do I need to raise the wheels off the ground?

A: No, but if you park your motorcycle on concrete, you should not allow the tires to sit directly on the floor. Simply place a piece of cardboard between the tires and the concrete. You can also use a heavy sheet of paper, or a piece of plastic.

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Oil types

Sunday, March 18th, 2007

Is one motor oil really better than the others for your vehicle?

In a word, yes. Pure synthetic oils now rule the roost of oil hierarchy. But there are also differences in some other oils – like the additives used. If you do not want to spend the extra money on a true synthetic, or a synthetic blend, then you should use a brand name oil – to be sure of the quality and service.

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Oil checks

Tuesday, March 13th, 2007

How can I tell, by checking something, if I need to change my oil?

Highly experienced mechanics can tell by looking at and feeling the oil. This is because they have performed or been present for hundreds or thousands of oil changes. It can be risky business for those without adequate experience. With that said, the oil should feel thick and slick, and not be dark in color. NOTE: it is suggested that you change at the interval prescribed by your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual – and, of course, always use Engine Sentry®.

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Tire break-in

Friday, March 9th, 2007

What is the best way to break-in new motorcycle tires?

 

First, make sure your new tires are inflated properly. When the tires are brand new, they may well still have a waxy coating on them that assists in removing them from their molds and installing them on a vehicle. This will wear off quickly – usually less than 50-miles. Scrubbing the tire with cleanser will also quickly remove this substance. Then you should take it easy for the next 50-miles while the tires ‘scuff’ and traction is enhanced. After that, somewhere around 100 miles, you should be good to go.

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Stuck oil plug

Thursday, March 8th, 2007

How do I loosen an over-tight oil plug?

 

First, you’ll want to be sure not to ’round’ the head, which will make removal quite a bit more difficult. Get a closed end wrench that fits perfectly and put it on the plug. Apply a bit of torque to the wrench and the gently tape the wrench with a ball-peen hammer – very close to the plug. Tap on the wrench very near the plug end so that the shocks from the tapping help break the threads loose. Now you’ll need some leverage. Use a ½” drive ratchet and socket, if you have one. If not, a heavy 3/8″ drive will usually suffice. You’ll also want something to use as a ‘cheater bar’ or ‘breaker bar.’ That would be a piece of pipe, for example, that would fit OVER the end of the ratchet handle to give you dramatically increased leverage. Now try to remove the plug using the ratchet and breaker bar. If this is unsuccessful, you can get someone to tap on the socket with a ball-peen hammer while you apply pressure. If this fails, you should take the vehicle in and allow someone with an impact wrench to remove it – before the head is rounded. NOTE: Be sure you have a new gasket for that plug. The old one will definitely be ruined.

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