Archive for the ‘Automotive: Maintenance’ Category

A/C smell removal

Wednesday, April 11th, 2007

How do I get the smell of cigarettes out of my new (used) car’s air conditioner?

There are two places you’ll have to deal with here: 1) the ductwork lines and 2) the condenser coils. Neither is particularly easy to get completely free of smoke smell once they are inundated. I suggest working with the ductwork first. Turn the system on and set it to ‘re-circulate’ in the car. That causes the system to take air from inside the car, re-cool it, and then send it back into the car. Now you’ll need a bottle of Fabreeze – available at discount stores. With the car running and the windows closed, mist the Fabreeze generously into the car and close the door. Allow that application to get into the ductwork for about 5-minutes, then open the door and spray again, and close the door for a few more minutes. Leave the car and air conditioner running and open all the doors for another 5-minutes. Turn off the engine and let the car sit with the doors open for about 10-minutes. Now, get inside the car and see if it has improved. You may need to do this two or three times. NOTE: Make sure to give your car plenty of time to cool off between these treatments. You don’t want it to overheat from being parked with the air conditioner running. Now, you will either need to take your car to the shop to have the condenser coils cleaned, or, if you are an experienced DIYer – get out the manuals and follow the instructions. NOTE: You can also take your car to many details shops, which offer this service. Frankly, considering the time and costs involved, the detail shop may well be the way to go from the start.

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Oil types

Sunday, March 18th, 2007

Is one motor oil really better than the others for your vehicle?

In a word, yes. Pure synthetic oils now rule the roost of oil hierarchy. But there are also differences in some other oils – like the additives used. If you do not want to spend the extra money on a true synthetic, or a synthetic blend, then you should use a brand name oil – to be sure of the quality and service.

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Salt stain removal

Friday, March 16th, 2007

How do I get salt stains out of my car’s carpet?

Salt is corrosive, and should be removed from the carpet as soon as possible. If the salt is left on the carpet for too long, it will fade the color and cleaning will still leave discolorations. Start by flushing the carpet with water. This can be done easily with a handheld spray bottle of water and a wet dry vacuum. Soak the salt areas and then vacuum up the water. Repeat as necessary to remove the bulk of the salt and other minerals. Allow the carpet to dry and then use any of the better spray-on carpet cleaners available at the store. NOTE: if you don’t have a wet vacuum you can use a couple of towels to remove the flushing water.

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Oil checks

Tuesday, March 13th, 2007

How can I tell, by checking something, if I need to change my oil?

Highly experienced mechanics can tell by looking at and feeling the oil. This is because they have performed or been present for hundreds or thousands of oil changes. It can be risky business for those without adequate experience. With that said, the oil should feel thick and slick, and not be dark in color. NOTE: it is suggested that you change at the interval prescribed by your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual – and, of course, always use Engine Sentry®.

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Stuck oil plug

Thursday, March 8th, 2007

How do I loosen an over-tight oil plug?

 

First, you’ll want to be sure not to ’round’ the head, which will make removal quite a bit more difficult. Get a closed end wrench that fits perfectly and put it on the plug. Apply a bit of torque to the wrench and the gently tape the wrench with a ball-peen hammer – very close to the plug. Tap on the wrench very near the plug end so that the shocks from the tapping help break the threads loose. Now you’ll need some leverage. Use a ½” drive ratchet and socket, if you have one. If not, a heavy 3/8″ drive will usually suffice. You’ll also want something to use as a ‘cheater bar’ or ‘breaker bar.’ That would be a piece of pipe, for example, that would fit OVER the end of the ratchet handle to give you dramatically increased leverage. Now try to remove the plug using the ratchet and breaker bar. If this is unsuccessful, you can get someone to tap on the socket with a ball-peen hammer while you apply pressure. If this fails, you should take the vehicle in and allow someone with an impact wrench to remove it – before the head is rounded. NOTE: Be sure you have a new gasket for that plug. The old one will definitely be ruined.

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Old brake fluid

Wednesday, March 7th, 2007

I have a can of brake fluid that I used about two months ago. It still has some in it. I only used it once, and closed it right away. Can I use that to fill my reservoir?

NO! Brake fluid quickly absorbs water from the air and that reduces its efficiency. Brake fluid cans announce this on the cans. It’s best to trash any leftover brake fluid as soon as you’re done with the new container. Always err on the side of caution!

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Red leak

Tuesday, March 6th, 2007

I have red, thick liquid leaking under my car. What is it?

The chances are it is transmission fluid. You can take the car to the car wash and spray off the undercarriage area with water. Then park the car in a clean area – where the leak has not stained the ground. Check it later and see where the leak is coming from. Then look under the car in that area and you’ll see it. Then you can decide how to deal with it. In the interim, be sure to check out the fluid level often. Don’t let all the fluid drain out and run it dry or there could be severe damage to your vehicle.

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Battery cleaning

Tuesday, February 27th, 2007

How do I clean my battery terminals?

First, you can pour either some white vinegar or strong baking soda solution over them to flush away the corrosion. Then, when they are clean, take a wire brush and slightly rough them up to enhance contact. This can also be done with a piece of sandpaper – about 80-100 grit is best. NOTE: be sure to clean the cable connectors too, to ensure the best connection possible.

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Carpet burn repair

Sunday, February 18th, 2007

How can I repair a small cigarette burn in my car’s carpeting?

Move the passenger’s seat all the way to the rear. Take a small, sharp pair of scissors and reach under the seat and cut some of the carpet fibers off – enough to fill the area you wish to repair. Make sure the repair area is nice and clean – free of dust, oil, grease, etc. Now, hold the cut fibers in a bunch – so that the ends are about even. Put a small dollop of Elmer’s White Glue on the repair spot. Now place the end of the cut fibers into the hole and sort of wiggle them to get them glued-up on the end. Now, release the fiber bunch. It will stick in place. Now, CAREFULLY organize/arrange the new fibers to look natural. The glue will set in an hour or less, but do not touch the repaired area for 24-hours. NOTE: Do not use super glue type products for this repair. Super glue dries brittle, and it will crack and let loose of the fibers in a relatively short time. It also makes them stand a bit differently than the original carpet.

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Regular to synthetic oil

Friday, January 26th, 2007

How do I convert from using regular engine oil to using synthetic engine oil in my engine?

There really is nothing special that is required. You should allow the old, fossil-based oil to fully drain from the engine – perhaps allow it to drain overnight. Also, be sure to change the oil filter. It’s a great time to install an Engine Sentry®.

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