Archive for the ‘Automotive: Maintenance’ Category

Rust free tow ball

Saturday, December 6th, 2008

Q: How can I keep rust from forming on my tow ball when I am not using it?

 

A: If you want to spend a few dollars, go to an auto parts store and purchase an appropriately sized cover for the ball. Before putting the cover onto the tow ball, lightly spray it with some silicone, or rub a very small bit of light oil onto it – 3-in-1 oil works very well for this, as does sewing machine oil. If your tow ball is already rusty, rub the rust off using fine or extra fine steel wool and some silicone or light oil. Finish by wiping it down with a paper towel and then again re-coat the ball with a light oil or silicone. You can make a free tow ball cover for some size tow balls using a split tennis ball, but this will not cover the base of the tow ball – only the actual ball. If none of the above appeal to you, then just follow the instructions above for removing existing rust and then apply a very thin film of grease to the tow ball and base. This will not only protect the tow ball from rusting, it will also ensure that when the hitch is used on the tow ball, the hitch mechanism will rotate freely and without squeaking.

  • Share/Bookmark

Jump starting

Thursday, July 19th, 2007

Q: My 12-volt motorcycle battery is completely dead. Can I jump start my motorcycle with my portable car battery charger?

A: It will depend on two things: 1) whether or not your battery is truly ‘completely’ dead and 2) the capacity of your portable car battery charger. Many car battery chargers do not have a setting for ‘jump starting’ another vehicle. If your car battery charger has a setting for jump starting, then follow all safety procedures and use it to start your motorcycle. If it does not have such a setting, then you can try hooking it up to your motorcycle battery, again following all necessary safety precautions, and try to charge up your motorcycle battery enough to get it to turnover.

  • Share/Bookmark

Clean spark plugs

Tuesday, July 17th, 2007

Q: How can I clean my own spark plugs?

A: If your plugs have oily residue on them, such as two-stroke engine plugs frequently do, start by using a tiny bit of gasoline and a toothbrush to remove all of that. Then use a wire brush to get the rest of the top area dirt, grime, carbon, etc. Rub the brush, briskly, on the plug in all directions and angles. Finish with a small piece of fine Emory cloth or sandpaper. Fold it over once and slide it between the two contacts – then slide it back and forth 15-20 times to remove debris stuck to those critical points. Now check and make sure that the gap is still within specifications. Finally, be sure to clean all the debris off the plug before reinstalling it in your engine. This can be done with compressed air and/or some gasoline and a toothbrush. NOTE: be sure to check the porcelain on the plug to ensure it’s not cracked or chipped – if it is, replace the plug.

  • Share/Bookmark

Lock maintenance

Saturday, July 7th, 2007

Q: I have an older car, and do not have keyless entry. My driver’s door lock is getting harder and harder to work with the key. Do I need to replace it, or can I do something to make it work better?

A: There are two elements to the door’s locking mechanism: 1) the keyed tumbler system and 2) the actual mechanism that is engaged when the tumblers are engaged/disengaged. Your problem is most likely with the first. To fix it, blow compressed air (or use a can of air with the nozzle attached) into the slot where your key goes. This will dislodge and remove any debris. Now, stick the end of a tube of powdered graphite into the key slot and squeeze a puff or two into the lock. Now, insert the key and slide it in and out a few times – then turn the key several times to get the graphite throughout the lock. This service should be performed about every 6-months to a year, depending on how dirty your area is. If you need to fix the interior mechanism, you’ll need to remove the inside door panel and clean and lubricate as necessary for your specific locking mechanism. White lithium grease is excellent as a lubricant for this application.

  • Share/Bookmark

Stuck door

Friday, July 6th, 2007

Q: The rear door on my 2000 Honda Passport doesn’t open from the outside and the child lock is engaged on that door. Any ideas on how to open the door?

A: Almost surely, your door’s closing/locking mechanism is either stuck or broken. To open the door you’ll require a tool called a “Slim Jim.” These are at car dealers, locksmiths, and police departments. The tool slides down between the car’s window and the rubber seal and allows you to grab the lock and manually lift it. If you know someone with a Slim Jim, you can get a diagram of the interior of the door from the Internet and then use the tool to open it. Otherwise, you’ll have to take it to either a locksmith or a dealer. In the long run, the dealer will likely work out to be the best option – as the door’s mechanism will have to be either repaired or replaced.

  • Share/Bookmark

Battery care

Saturday, June 23rd, 2007

Q: I have a car that I only drive about once or twice a month. The battery gets discharged when the car is not used. How can I prevent that from happening?

A: It is inescapable that a CONNECTED battery loses a very small part of its charge – even when not being ‘used.’ The battery is, actually, being used however. The loss of power is just very minute – such as running an electric clock, etc. In any event, purchase a Battery Tender and hookup your battery. They’re inexpensive, and work like a charm. If your battery is fully discharging between uses, you’ll likely need to replace the battery.

  • Share/Bookmark

Windshield repair

Friday, June 22nd, 2007

Q: How can I stop a ‘growing’ crack in my car’s front window – from growing any more?

A: It is recommended that you do NOT try to fix this yourself. That you take it to a windshield repair company as soon as possible after the crack begins. However, you can purchase windshield repair kits at the better auto parts stores. Many people report that these do-it-yourself repairs are not up to par – and frequently leave the window foggy, or fail to stop the crack from enlarging. Also, if you do try to repair it yourself, the products/chemicals you apply to the window may well make it impossible for one of the cheap, filler-type repairs so frequently done today to properly fix the crack. This would leave you needing to have a brand new windshield installed – a much more costly venture.

  • Share/Bookmark

Terminal service

Thursday, June 21st, 2007

Q: How can I clean my battery and battery terminals – safely?

A: Start by disconnecting the negative (-) lead from the battery. Now remove the positive lead. This will ensure the operation is safe for your car, and for you. Now, you can brush off any loose debris with a scrub brush or a toothbrush. Once that’s done, use a wire brush to clean the terminals. If you don’t have a wire brush, the carefully pour some white vinegar over the terminals. This will dissolve away any corrosion or discoloration almost instantly. At this time, if you deem it necessary, you can use a small brush and mild cleaning solution to clean the rest of the battery case. When it’s all done, use a piece of sand paper to ‘rough up’ the two terminals – and ensure a really solid connection to the leads. Now put a dab of grease onto each terminal and re-attach the positive lead first, followed by the negative lead. Make sure the connections are tight and solid. Finish off by putting a dollop of grease on each terminal and spreading it around to waterproof, and otherwise protect, the entire connection.

  • Share/Bookmark

Jump start

Wednesday, June 6th, 2007

Q: How do I jump start a car with another car or truck?

A: With the vehicle that has the good battery running at idle, attach the red (positive) cable of the jumper cables to the positive (+) terminal of the battery of the car or truck that has a good battery. Now attach that same cable to the positive (+) terminal of the car or truck with the bad battery. Now, attach the black (negative) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the car or truck with the good battery. Now attach that cable to a ground on the car or truck that is being jump started. IT IS NOT ADVISABLE TO CONNECT TO THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE DEAD VEHICLE’S

BATTERY. IF THE CONNECTION IS BAD YOU CAN DAMAGE THE GOOD VEHICLE’S

BATTERY – OR CAUSE OTHER UNWANTED DAMAGE. Wait about ten seconds, then attempt to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If you get a cranking sound, but it does not start, turn off the ignition key and wait 30-seconds while the failing battery gets a bit more charge. Now, try it again. Repeat if necessary, but not more than three times. If the dead vehicle doesn’t start, it might indicate a more serious problem that should be checked by a qualified mechanic. NOTE: Don’t be too confident of the red and black wires on batteries. Sometimes they are installed backwards. Always check for the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals by looking on the battery itself.

  • Share/Bookmark

Rubber care

Thursday, April 26th, 2007

Q: How do I stop my car door rubber insulation from sticking to itself and pulling loose?

A: This usually happens when the rubber gets very dirty, sticky and/or dried out. It starts to stick to itself, and then the insulation gradually pulls away from either the car door or the car door jam as the door is used. First, you’ll need to thoroughly clean the rubber insulation strips on both the door, and the car door jam. This can be done with any good cleaning solution. Be sure to use plenty of water to rinse the area when you’re finished. After washing and thoroughly rinsing, pat the rubber dry with a towel and then allow it to air dry completely. Leave the door open during these operations. When the rubber is completely dry, treat it with some Armor All. I’d suggest using two Armor All treatments – the second after the first dries. The rubber should appear ‘wet’ when the treatments are completed.

  • Share/Bookmark