Archive for the ‘Automotive: General’ Category

Bird droppings

Monday, August 6th, 2007

Q: Some bird droppings got on my car at the airport long term parking area. They were on there for some 2-3 weeks. After a thorough washing, ‘spots’ still exist. How can I remove the spots?

A: Bird droppings can actually eat all the way through your paint – down to the bare metal. This is a common problem with farming equipment, which is stored for months at a time in areas where pigeons roost. The most important thing is to remove the droppings as soon as possible – which can be done by flooding the area with water, and using a sponge and/or a mild soap if necessary. Once the paint is affected, you will likely need to use a very fine rubbing compound to get the affected area to look right again. Get some extra fine cut rubbing compound at your local auto parts store – you won’t need very much, so get a small container. Follow the directions on the can and the mark should quickly disappear. If it doesn’t, then you’ll likely need to proceed with some form of touch-up painting, followed by rubbing compound to properly blend the spot into the rest of the finish.

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Tire noise

Monday, July 30th, 2007

Q: Why does the noise my tires make on the road increase as the tires wear down further?

A: It has to do with the amount of rubber that is in contact with the road’s surface. By design, new tires have only a percentage of the rubber coming into contact with the road. As the tread wears away and the inner portion of the tire is exposed, more surface area contacts the road and thus creates more noise. NOTE: If your tires have become that much more noisy, it’s likely time to have them changed. Tread is critical to proper tire performance and vehicle safety.

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Remove vinyl decals

Thursday, July 12th, 2007

Q: How do you remove vinyl decals from windows?

A: If the vinyl decals are on the OUTSIDE of the window, it is relatively easy to remove. To remove them, first try heating them with a hair dryer and peeling them off. This will often work, and is the fastest, cleanest method to remove vinyl decals. If this fails, then use a single-edge razor blade to carefully lift a part of the outer edge of the vinyl decal. Now again try to peel it (slowly but steadily) away. As a last resort, use the razor blade to completely remove the vinyl decal and then use Goo-Gone to remove the remnant adhesives. Finish with a good window cleaning using white vinegar and water (1:4 parts). NOTE: If the vinyl decals are on the INSIDE of the window, and you have defroster wires on the window – then you should take your vehicle to a window tint installer and have the vinyl decals removed.

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Lock maintenance

Saturday, July 7th, 2007

Q: I have an older car, and do not have keyless entry. My driver’s door lock is getting harder and harder to work with the key. Do I need to replace it, or can I do something to make it work better?

A: There are two elements to the door’s locking mechanism: 1) the keyed tumbler system and 2) the actual mechanism that is engaged when the tumblers are engaged/disengaged. Your problem is most likely with the first. To fix it, blow compressed air (or use a can of air with the nozzle attached) into the slot where your key goes. This will dislodge and remove any debris. Now, stick the end of a tube of powdered graphite into the key slot and squeeze a puff or two into the lock. Now, insert the key and slide it in and out a few times – then turn the key several times to get the graphite throughout the lock. This service should be performed about every 6-months to a year, depending on how dirty your area is. If you need to fix the interior mechanism, you’ll need to remove the inside door panel and clean and lubricate as necessary for your specific locking mechanism. White lithium grease is excellent as a lubricant for this application.

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Stuck door

Friday, July 6th, 2007

Q: The rear door on my 2000 Honda Passport doesn’t open from the outside and the child lock is engaged on that door. Any ideas on how to open the door?

A: Almost surely, your door’s closing/locking mechanism is either stuck or broken. To open the door you’ll require a tool called a “Slim Jim.” These are at car dealers, locksmiths, and police departments. The tool slides down between the car’s window and the rubber seal and allows you to grab the lock and manually lift it. If you know someone with a Slim Jim, you can get a diagram of the interior of the door from the Internet and then use the tool to open it. Otherwise, you’ll have to take it to either a locksmith or a dealer. In the long run, the dealer will likely work out to be the best option – as the door’s mechanism will have to be either repaired or replaced.

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MPG to KPL

Thursday, July 5th, 2007

Q: How can I convert from “miles per gallon” to “kilometers per liter?”

A: 1 Kilometer = 0.621371192 miles (1 Mile = 1.6 Kilometers.) 1 Liter = 0.264172051 gallons (4.54 liters = 1 Gallon). Now, using the same formula you used to compute MPG, plug in the metric equivalents. OR, to convert your MPG to KPL, multiply as necessary:

If you get 30 MPG, multiply 30 x 1.6. Now divide that by 4.54. The answer is: 10.57 KPL.

 

NOTE: Interestingly, people in the metric world tend to compute mileage in “liters per 100 kilometers.”

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Battery care

Tuesday, July 3rd, 2007

Q: Should I start my motorcycle every three or four days so that the battery won’t die or go bad?

A: It would be impossible to answer this question accurately, but I can give you a guideline or two, and a suggestion. If your battery is in bad shape, you might need to start it daily to keep it alive. If your battery is new, and in very good shape, you would only need to start the vehicle about once every ten days or so. As you might imagine, this consumes a great deal of costly fuel, and is not really a very efficient way to charge a battery. The best solution for vehicles that are rarely driven is a Battery Tender. You can read about them at batterytender.com. These are not chargers, but rather systems which read your batteries condition and trickle charge only as necessary. If you use one, you’ll never have a dead battery.

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Avoid boredom

Sunday, July 1st, 2007

Q: I’m going to be on the road driving for a 1,200 mile trip. Is there anything I can do to avoid boredom?

A: Making a long drive alone, especially if you’re not used to it, can be a tedious and potentially boring event. But take heart – there are some things you can do to avoid boredom, and make sure that your mind stays sharp. Listening to music on the radio is surely the most common thing people do to avoid being bored, and it does the trick for many drivers. Also consider listening to talk radio. The constant change, plus your reactions to the discussion can be a real ‘eye-opener.’ Another great thing to do is listen to books on tape or CD-ROM. There are thousands of choices of titles, including many classics. And most public libraries will have these available for check-out. Also, consider stopping at regular intervals to stretch. Just pull over where it’s safe and walk around for a minute or two to get the blood flowing. ‘Roll’ your neck a couple of times also – it really helps. NOTE: when you’re taking a trip that is mostly driven on Interstate highways, even though the speed limit is 75, figure you will only average a speed of about 60.

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Jump start

Wednesday, June 6th, 2007

Q: How do I jump start a car with another car or truck?

A: With the vehicle that has the good battery running at idle, attach the red (positive) cable of the jumper cables to the positive (+) terminal of the battery of the car or truck that has a good battery. Now attach that same cable to the positive (+) terminal of the car or truck with the bad battery. Now, attach the black (negative) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the car or truck with the good battery. Now attach that cable to a ground on the car or truck that is being jump started. IT IS NOT ADVISABLE TO CONNECT TO THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE DEAD VEHICLE’S

BATTERY. IF THE CONNECTION IS BAD YOU CAN DAMAGE THE GOOD VEHICLE’S

BATTERY – OR CAUSE OTHER UNWANTED DAMAGE. Wait about ten seconds, then attempt to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If you get a cranking sound, but it does not start, turn off the ignition key and wait 30-seconds while the failing battery gets a bit more charge. Now, try it again. Repeat if necessary, but not more than three times. If the dead vehicle doesn’t start, it might indicate a more serious problem that should be checked by a qualified mechanic. NOTE: Don’t be too confident of the red and black wires on batteries. Sometimes they are installed backwards. Always check for the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals by looking on the battery itself.

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Soldering

Tuesday, June 5th, 2007

Q: I don’t have soldering equipment. How can I solder a small electrical connection?

A: If you don’t have a soldering iron, flux, and the proper type of solder, a good substitute is a product called ‘Liquid Solder.’ You can find it at good hardware stores. Make sure the two things to be connected are completely clean and free of all oils, grease, etc. This can be done with alcohol. The just follow the directions on the tube.

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