Archive for the ‘Automotive: Appearance’ Category

Remove overspray

Monday, March 5th, 2007

I recently had my car painted and there is some overspray on the chrome wheels. How can I get it off?

Fortunately, the paint will not ‘stick’ to the chrome very well, and is therefore relatively easy to remove. Get some lacquer thinner from the hardware store – you won’t need much. Moisten a rough rag, like an old facecloth or towel, with the lacquer thinner. (Be sure to use proper safety equipment, and be sure not to allow any of the lacquer thinner on painted surfaces.) Rub over the overspray areas with the moistened cloth. The thinner will take a couple of minutes to soften the paint and make it easy to wipe off. Just keep the area moist and let the thinner work for you. When all of the paint is removed, be sure to completely flush the chrome and the surrounding areas with water. If desired, finish with a quality chrome polish.

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Rust prevention

Tuesday, February 20th, 2007

How can I prevent my lug nuts from getting rusty over and over?

Start by removing the lug nuts from service on the wheel. Next, make absolutely sure that all the rust is off of them and that they are completely dry and clean. You will need the smallest size can of clear polyurethane that you can get at the hardware store. Carefully dip the clean, dry, rust-free lugs into the polyurethane briefly and then slowly remove them. ONLY dip the exposed parts of the lug nuts – don’t let the polyurethane get on the threads! Now, sit the threaded, open part of the lug onto something to allow it to dry – like a pencil standing up. The idea is to allow the lug nut to dry thoroughly, and the finish to be light and even. When the polyurethane on the lug is completely dry, remove it from the drying stick and gently sand off any excess that flowed downward – making sure not to sand the areas that are visible after installation. Depending on your area and how much weather and road salt they have to endure, the lugs should nw go a few years without rusting.

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Rust removal

Tuesday, February 20th, 2007

How can I remove rust from my wheel’s lug nuts?

It depends on how deep the rusting is, and how much of it there is. You could use Naval Jelly, if the problem is that serious. For very light, to-rust you can use a stiff toothbrush and some WD-40. A great way to remove rust is with extra-fine steel wool (grade 4-0 – 8-0). 8-0 will also polish chrome and aluminum. If you do use Naval Jelly, be sure to be careful not to let it get on other surfaces. You also might want to test one lug before using it on all of them.

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Carpet burn repair

Sunday, February 18th, 2007

How can I repair a small cigarette burn in my car’s carpeting?

Move the passenger’s seat all the way to the rear. Take a small, sharp pair of scissors and reach under the seat and cut some of the carpet fibers off – enough to fill the area you wish to repair. Make sure the repair area is nice and clean – free of dust, oil, grease, etc. Now, hold the cut fibers in a bunch – so that the ends are about even. Put a small dollop of Elmer’s White Glue on the repair spot. Now place the end of the cut fibers into the hole and sort of wiggle them to get them glued-up on the end. Now, release the fiber bunch. It will stick in place. Now, CAREFULLY organize/arrange the new fibers to look natural. The glue will set in an hour or less, but do not touch the repaired area for 24-hours. NOTE: Do not use super glue type products for this repair. Super glue dries brittle, and it will crack and let loose of the fibers in a relatively short time. It also makes them stand a bit differently than the original carpet.

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Seat stains

Monday, February 12th, 2007

A red candle melted on my cloth car seat. I used ice to remove the wax, but the red stain is still left. How can I get it out?

Without knowing exactly what the stain (candle dye) is made from, it’s impossible to say for sure. The best fix is to have the seat steam cleaned. You can also try one or more of the various cloth car seat cleaners available at stores. The premium name cleaners are quite effective. NOTE: when you get the seatc leaned, to prevent serious staining in the future you might want to consider using some spray-on Scotch Guard.

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Removing pinstripes

Monday, January 29th, 2007

What is the best way to remove old stick-on type pinstripes from the paint?

If there is clear-coat type of paint over them, then there is really no way that’s reasonable at home. If not, use a heat gun or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive and then slowly peel it away. Remove the remaining adhesive residue with any of the available release solvents such as Goo Gone. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the area when you’re done.

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Aluminum cleaning

Monday, January 22nd, 2007

How do I get that whitish discoloration off of my aluminum wheels?

It will depend on what is causing the white material to be visible. If it is water stains, from hard water, then you can mix some white vinegar and water (4-parts white vinegar to 10-parts water) and rub it off easily with a sponge. Be sure to rinse and then dry the wheel afterwards to prevent it from happening because of the rinse water used.

If the residue is caused by an etching and discoloration of the aluminum – then you’ll need to get some aluminum polish, such as Mag-Chrome Aluminum Metal Polish by Eagle One. Thoroughly clean the wheel and then follow the directions on whichever brand you purchase. This process can take quite a bit of time – and elbow grease.

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Seat repair

Monday, January 22nd, 2007

How do I repair a small tear in my car’s faux leather (vinyl) seat?

There are small, inexpensive, relatively easy to use kits available for repairing small tears and holes in vinyl. You can find these kits at auto parts stores and discount stores – as well as hardware and specialty stores. They are all pretty much the same, except for the colors that come in the kit. When you are shopping for the kit, be sure to find one that has as close a match to your vinyl color as possible. The kits all come with various patches to imprint various ‘grains.’ NOTE: be sure to read and follow the kit’s instructions closely, and you’ll get a near perfect match and repair.

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Plastic renewal

Monday, January 15th, 2007

I have really large plastic bumper inserts that were originally black. They are now more of a grey with some whitish stains on them. How can I get them looking better?

Mix-up a warm solution of water and a mild soap. Now, thoroughly clean the plastic using the solution and a medium brush. Use a brush, not a rag. The plastic has tiny grooves and indentations that trap and hold grease, oil and roads grime. You’ll need to get all of that out. Wash and rinse the plastic three times – to ensure that no dirt remains in the plastic’s countless recessed areas. Now you’ll want any of the brand name plastic/vinyl protectants WITH UV protection that are designed for use on the outside of vehicles. Wait until the plastic is completely dry and then SOAK the plastic – don’t just dampen a rag and wipe the bumper – really soak it. Come back in ten minutes and soak it again. Repeat this until after ten minutes, there are no ‘dry’ looking areas remaining. Now, simply wipe away the excess. You’re done.

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Sticker off bumper

Thursday, January 11th, 2007

How do I remove a bumper sticker from a chrome bumper without scratching or otherwise harming the bumper’s finish?

To start, lay a large rag over the sticker and then soak the rag thoroughly with water. Make sure the sopping wet towel is contacting the stickers. Let that set an hour or so and then remove the rag. Use a scrub brush or a plastic ice scraper to carefully remove the paper part of the sticker. When you’re done with that, you will only have adhesive residue remaining on the bumper. Now, pat the area dry and then clean the rest of the glue off with any quality adhesive remover such a Goo-Gone. Finally, just wash the bumper and polish as desired. NOTE: A single-edged razor blade can be used, but you must be very careful not to scratch the bumper.

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